For every person who says Rolex is the best brand in the world, there’s another person who finds them boring. As the bestselling luxury watch brand in the world, they certainly have a target on their backs. Maybe you don’t want to pay a premium for a Rolex, or maybe you respect them but just aren’t that drawn to them. So, a few weeks back we took on the challenge to match the major Rolex models with their most worthy competitors – and I promised you a second part. So here we go!
Rolex Day-Date
This is a special one, because you have to get into the mindset of someone who wants a Day-Date. For some, you buy a Day-Date because you want a trophy. Athletes want to celebrate signing a big contract by buying a Day-Date and they want to be seen with that recognizable solid gold presidential bracelet. So, nothing else really compares in that regard.
On the vintage side, solid gold Day-Dates can be had for less than you might think. Again, the visual statement is likely the main appeal here, but a vintage buyer is more likely after that tropical glamor of the 1980s, a grandpa watch but in the best way.
Either way, we can all agree that no one’s buying this watch because they can’t remember the day of the week.
For alternatives, we’ll focus on the second type of buyers, the non-atheletes, since that vision is more flexible, and we’ll set our price range to 20k and below. For that amount of money, you could pick up a full gold Cartier Tank Americaine or a two tone, automatic Royal Oak. You could go more 1970s and get any number of niche integrated bracelet watches from AP, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron. And for just over 20k, you get into solid gold Cartier Santos and Vacheron Overseas territory.
The Day-Date was designed with luxury in mind, so it’s less of a spec vs. spec question and more about what luxury looks like to you.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Explorer
Let’s take on the Oyster Perpetual and Explorer together because they share a lot of similarities in terms of design, functionality, and personality. Both fall into the broader category of no-date field watches with only the essentials at play. The (relative) affordability of these watches also helps widen our options here when it comes to alternatives. So, let’s try a few options out and see how we feel.
First up, we have the 36mm IWC Pilot. The visual comparison is pretty strong here, and the brand heritage is well established, but it’s lacking in certain specs with a water resistance of 60m compared to 100 and a power reserve of 50 hours compared to 70.
I’d throw in the Omega Aqua Terra and the Railmaster here as well. We’ve covered these a few times already, and the comparison is pretty clear: robust versatility without a lot of fuss.
I’d even throw in the Cartier Santos as a daily driver alternative here. I remember reading a Fratello article pitting the Santos 2823 against the 36mm Explorer, and that daily driver comparison framed the Santos in a new light, at least for me.
Finally, for a more budget option, I’d recommend the Nomos Club or the Nomos Ahoi. The Club model family is slightly cleaner compared to the sportier Ahoi. Water resistance is 100m for the Club and 200m for the Ahoi. And like the Oyster Perpetual, you have a wide range of sizes and colors to choose from here.
Rolex Explorer II
For the Rolex Explorer II, you get similar functionality as the GMT but in a more low-key package. Truth be told, the Explorer family is still one of the least hyped corners of Rolex, so the value for money has remained more intact than with some other model families.
The qualities we’re looking for in our alternatives are useful and dependable without being too flashy about it.
With that in mind, the strongest alternatives are coming from Tudor, Omega, and even Breitling. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is a natural comparison because the design draws heavy inspiration from the Explorer II reference 1655. You may also like the look and the price of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with the blue and red bezel.
For Omega, you have well-built and functional options like the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, the Planet Ocean GMT for a more robust package, or the Aqua Terra World Time if you want to lean a little more refined.
And finally Breitling. There are options that embody that tool watch ethos and add additional layers of functionality. The Breitling Chronomat GMT is worth considering because you get a diving bezel and a GMT. Same but different, you could go for the Transocean Chronograph GMT.
To sum it up, the Explorer II seems to have a wider range of alternatives because the buyer mindset is geared more towards practical reliability than the sheer power of the logo.
Rolex Daytona
Finally, we’re ending with the Rolex Daytona. This is perhaps the most famed and certainly the most hyped watch from Rolex today. This has been especially true in the last decade thanks to the meteoric rise of rare and vintage Daytonas on the auction scene and in the secondary market.
When it comes to the mindset of the Rolex Daytona buyer, we think about sportiness, status, and even a bit of aggression. The Daytona is a strong statement whether vintage or modern, steel or precious metal.
So, when it comes to alternatives, there are a couple ways to tackle this. One is from a horological perspective, and one is from a status perspective. We’re working within a price range of roughly 15,000-20,000 to keep it somewhat humble.
From a horological and historical perspective, the first alternatives that come to mind are the Omega Speedmaster and the Zenith El Primero. The El Primero movement was used in the Daytona for a number of years, and the 16520 “Zenith” Daytonas have become a collectable chapter in the model’s history. The El Primero has its own illustrious history as arguably the world’s first automatic chronograph caliber with notable references like the A386 and the Covergirl to name just two.
The Omega Speedmaster is a legend worth mentioning, not only for the undeniable historical significance but also its collectability. 321 calibers, Ed Whites, Moonshine gold examples, and the popularity of the Snoopy have helped raise the profile of the watch. And even at a more everyday level, the standard production Moonwatch remains one of the best values in the industry.
From a status standpoint, you have more high horology brands like Vacheron Constantin and Parmigiani Fleurier to consider. The Tondagraph from Parmigiani is perhaps too niche to attract a Daytona buyer, but the Overseas Chronograph from Vacheron combines that masculine energy of an integrated bracelet sport watch with solid heritage and an exclusive price point to match. The 49140 and 49150 are roughly the starting price of a Daytona on Chrono24, and I know what I’d decide if given the choice.
