If you’ve only just started to learn about watches, you’re likely to stumble across terms that are used as a matter of course but are completely unfamiliar to you – such as the term “tool watch.” But what does it actually mean? In this article, we’re shedding some light on the subject and introducing you to several great tool watches for men and women.
What is a tool watch?
You won’t find a clear definition of the term “tool watch” here, despite a general understanding of its meaning. The boundaries are too imprecise, and the use of certain materials can quickly turn an actual tool watch into what some would call a dress watch. So what makes a watch a tool watch, according to the consensus? A tool watch, often known as a functional watch or mission watch, is primarily used to read the time and does not have any superfluous extras or decorations. This type of watch is characterized by a clean design and robust materials that ensure ease of use and readability in all situations. While dress watches like the Rolex Datejust or the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 are rather out of place on adventurous expeditions, solid functional watches such as the Breitling Avenger Blackbird or the Sinn U1 thrive in extreme conditions and show what they can do.
An All-Purpose Instrument
So is a tool watch more of a tool than a wristwatch? Yes and no. The term is partly true because – like a good hammer – it depends on the quality and durability of the materials. However, a more appropriate word would probably be “instrument” rather than “tool.” Similar to the countless instruments in an airplane cockpit, the dial of a tool watch tells you at first glance what you want to know – without any frills. Many people classify a timepiece as a tool watch if it has another function in addition to displaying the time. However, this need not always be the case. Although most tool watches have useful additional functions, this also applies to many dress watches, for example. If it were only about the additional functions, then the Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from Vacheron Constantin with its perpetual calendar, moon phase display, and chronograph function could be considered a tool watch. But you’re unlikely to encounter this model in extreme situations or unfavorable weather conditions – which is not to say that a tool watch is only used for daring expeditions. Added functionality does not a tool watch make. Rather, it’s the interplay of resistant materials, ease of use, clear dial design, and, if necessary, one or more additional functions. Some functional features that turn a watch into a tool watch are, for example, a second time zone, a 24-hour display, a date window, a stopwatch function, or a diving bezel. Complications like a moon phase, pointer date, perpetual calendar, or regulator dial, on the other hand, tend to be reserved for dress watches, although some watches with these functions can certainly also be described as tool watches. As you can see, it’s not easy to define.
The Best Tool Watches for Men and Women
Nevertheless, we want to introduce you to a few classic functional watches for men and women. You’ll notice that although these tool watches are all fundamentally different, they do have certain similarities.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M
Omega kicks things off with a classic tool watch that found its way onto the wrist of fictional secret agent James Bond for good reason. The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M looks like the big brother of the equally popular Seamaster 300M, but doubles its water resistance to 600 m (1,969 ft). Both models are equipped with a helium escape valve at the 10 o’clock position, wide hands, and a combination of Arabic numerals and stick indices. The result? A solid watch with more than impressive functionality. With a case diameter of 42 mm, the sporty Planet Ocean is also suitable for people with larger wrists. Powered by a chronometer-certified automatic movement, the standard version of the Planet Ocean 600 ref. 232.30.42.21.01.001 has a practical date window at 3 o’clock. For people who expect a little more from their watch, the collection also offers sporty chronographs or variants with a GMT function.
If you’d prefer something a little more unusual and are looking for an exceptional model, you could also opt for the striking Seamaster Ploprof 1200 M. With a remarkable water resistance of 1,200 m (3,900 ft) and a diameter of 55 mm, this Omega tool watch makes conventional diving watches look pretty outdated.
Breitling Chronomat 44
With the legendary Chronomat 44, Breitling has an equally solid functional watch in the race. The archetypal modern pilot’s watch, this timepiece is part of Breitling’s Chronomat collection. The Chronomat 44 has a clearer dial than the Navitimer and focuses on its chronograph function. But that is by no means all this series has to offer. Models in the line are water-resistant to 500 m (1,640 ft) making them suitable for use not only on land and in the air, but also in the water.
But the Chronomat collection from Breitling isn’t just for men with larger wrists. There are other automatic variants with 40, 38, or 36 mm case sizes that cover the unisex segment, but also significantly more feminine variants with case diameters from 28 mm, equipped with quartz calibers and in more colorful designs, some with a diamond-set bezel or indices. The extent to which these still reflect the typical tool watch character is up for debate.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92
If you break down everything you know about tool watches to the essentials, that’s exactly what you get from Bell & Ross: highly functional timepieces designed for pilots and appreciated by soldiers all over the world. The BR03-92 embodies the spirit of adventure and was strongly inspired by the board instruments in airplane cockpits. Models come with a square 42-mm case made of steel, titanium, or ceramic and a matching strap made of nylon, leather, or rubber. The mostly black dial features easy-to-read Arabic indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock and a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. Thanks to the wide sword hands and luminescent accents, you can always count on this watch, even in the dark.
Rolex Explorer II
If you are looking for a tool watch from Rolex, you should take a look at the Explorer II. This all-rounder has an adventurous spirit and will not let you down even in the most adverse conditions. The 24-hour display, date window, and luminescent indices make it a practical companion for cave explorers and all those who never want to be without their watch. With its robust stainless steel case, durable Oyster bracelet, clear dial, and reliable automatic movement, the Explorer has proven itself on countless expeditions and climbed many a mountain on the wrist of Reinhold Messner. With diameters of 40 to 42 mm, it’s suitable as a tool watch for men and women.
Watches From Sinn
Best known for its tool watches, the Frankfurt-based manufacturer Sinn has more than earned its place on this list. Sinn watches are valued by special forces around the world for their precision and durability. For example, a limited edition of the Sinn 857 was launched exclusively for the German special police unit of the Frankfurt police, and every member of this special unit is equipped with a Sinn. For the civilian population, however, the Sinn Duochronograph is recommended. With a 40-mm dark steel case and bracelet, a solid automatic movement and a clear dial despite the chronograph, this model combines everything that makes a good tool watch: a robust exterior and precise interior.
IWC Big Pilot’s and Pilot’s Watch
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is also a tool watch. Until the second half of the 19th century, these observation clocks were irreplaceable instruments for navigators on board aircraft, helping them to determine their position and course. There’s also the distinctive crown, which is easy to operate even when wearing gloves due to its size. Thanks to the simplicity of the dial, the observer can get all the important information at a glance. With its rather large diameter variants of 43 and 46 mm, this tool watch is particularly suitable for those with larger wrists. If you’re looking for a slightly more subtle timepiece or have to resort to a smaller case diameter due to your wrist size, slimmer models in the IWC Pilot’s Watch collection, like the Pilot’s Watch 36 or the Pilot’s Watch Mark, are also good options. You can even find some chronographs with a diameter of 39 mm – e.g., the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph IW3706. If we take a look at all of these fundamentally different tool watches, we notice that they are all similar in some way. Although they differ in function, design, and price, they share durable materials and simple dials that make them easy to read.
