A wrap on April 7, 2025: the annual Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva. Once again, the major luxury watch manufacturers presented their latest design creations and technical innovations. In the magazine article Watches and Wonders 2025: New Products from April 4, 2025, our author Aaron Voyles presented the latest models from Tudor, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. In this article, we’re taking a closer look at the brand new timepieces from Bvlgari, Grand Seiko, IWC, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.
Bvlgari with new Octo Finissimo and Serpenti
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. The Italian Maison Bvlgari presented four new watch models at Watches and Wonders, each of which is fascinating in its own unique way. The watchmaker set a new world record with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At an extremely thin 1.85 mm, the model is currently the thinnest watch with a flying tourbillon ever created. With this statement – following previous world records – Bvlgari once again cements its status as a pioneer in Haute Horlogerie. The wafer-thin case of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is made of titanium and measures 40 mm wide. At its heart is the heavily skeletonized in-house caliber BVF 900 with manual winding. Like the entire watch, the movement is just 1.85 mm high and offers a power reserve of 42 hours. However, with a water resistance of only 10 meters (1 bar, 33 feet), this timepiece should be kept away from water. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is limited to just 20 pieces. Its official list price is $678,000.
Serpenti Aeterna – The Sign of the Snake
Bvlgari is not only famous for the Octo Finissimo and world records. Since the late 1940s, the manufacturer has also been known for the ornate Serpenti jewelry watch, which was and is treasured by many celebrity wearers – including Hollywood icon Elisabeth Taylor. The Serpenti is characterized by a design that recalls of a coiled snake. The analog time display is located at the “head” of this snake-like wristwatch. At Watches and Wonders 2025, Bvlgari presented two new references of the legendary serpent watch, the Serpenti Aeterna. Both variants have a rich diamond setting. And both models feature pavé diamond dials. The latter models cost around $92,500, while the white gold version is noticeably more expensive at upwards of $250,000.
Grand Seiko – Evolution 9 With A New Spring Drive Caliber
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003 In 2025, the Japanese luxury watchmaker Grand Seiko achieved a masterful technical evolution with its sophisticated Spring Drive movement. With the caliber U.F.A. 9RB2, the watchmaker introduced a Spring Drive movement that is even more precise than any of its predecessors. The abbreviation U.F.A. stands for “Ultra Fine Accuracy,” a term that appears to do justice to the performance spectrum of this caliber in every regard. According to Grand Seiko, the average rate deviation of the U.F.A. 9RB2 is an incredible +/- 20 seconds…per year! Grand Seiko delivers its most precise movement to date. It draws its energy from a mainspring that operates together with an electronic regulating system. This wristwatch is the latest addition to the Evolution 9 collection with the reference number SLGB003. The case and three-link bracelet of this sporty and elegant watch are made of titanium. The diameter is only 37 mm, with a lug-to-lug of 44.3 mm, and an overall height of 11.4 mm. These dimensions make the model ideal as a unisex watch for narrow to medium-sized wrists. The water resistance is 100 meters (10 bar, 328 feet). With this watch, Grand Seiko is paying its usual attention to the finest detail and dial artistry. The fine structure of the light blue leaf is reminiscent of the frost-covered trees of the Japanese Kirigamine Highlands. The SLGB003 is currently available exclusively in Seiko boutiques.
IWC – A New Stainless Steel Ingenieur In Ceramic and Gold
The luxury watch manufacturer IWC from Schaffhausen, Switzerland presented a range of new watch models at Watches and Wonders 2025. 2025 also marks the 70th anniversary of the IWC Ingenieur. Let’s first focus on the fresh new references of this model. With the Ingenieur Automatic 42 (Ref. IW338903), IWC presented an Ingenieur made entirely of black ceramic for the very first time. In addition to the case itself, the case ring, bezel, base ring, crown, and crown guard are also made of this material. The case diameter is 42 mm with a case height of 11.5 mm. The Ingenieur Automatic 42 features the 82110 in-house movement with a power reserve of around 60 hours. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal display case back with antireflective coating. 
Another exciting model is the Ingenieur Automatic 40 (ref. IW328702) whose case, bracelet, and indices are made of 18-carat 5N gold. The IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber beats inside the 40 mm watch with a generous power reserve of 120 hours. With its diameter of 35 mm, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is ideal as a ladies’ or unisex watch. The case, bracelet, and indices are also made of 18-karat 5N gold. The model is reminiscent of the design of the Ingenieur ref. 1832, the Ingenieur model created by watch designer Gérald Genta in 1976. Three models are available. The reference IW324903 has a gold dial, while the variant with the reference number IW324901 is equipped with a silver dial. The reference IW324906 has a black dial. The in-house caliber 47110 powers all of these models. It has a power reserve of 42 hours.
The Ingenieur with the reference number IW328908 is a special edition of the Ingenieur Automatic 40, and is limited to 1,000 pieces. The most striking feature of this model is its green dial in combination with gold hands and indices. The watch is reminiscent of a model worn by the racing driver Sonny Hayes (played by Brad Pitt) in the movie F1. The stainless steel case houses the IWC caliber 32111, which also powers the Ingenieur Automatic 35.
Other IWC Models In the Watches and Wonders 2025 Range
In addition to the numerous new Ingenieur variants, IWC presented the Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel (ref. IW344903), a black-coated Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Perpetual Digital Date-Month (ref. IW388801) in its proprietary Ceratanium, and an IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL (ref. IW357701), also in Ceratanium.
TAG Heuer – New Carrera Day-Date
TAG Heuer presented a new model of the Carrera Day-Date at Watches and Wonders, which is available in three different dial colors. All variants have a 41-mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 12.7 mm. The new models all have 100 meters of water resistance (10 bar, 328 feet). The variant with the reference number WDA2112.BA0043 is a model with a blue sunburst dial with silver indices and hands. The watch is fitted with a three-link stainless steel bracelet. The reference WDA2113.BA0043 has a red dial with a fine sunburst finish, while the reference WDA2111.BA0043 has a black dial with gold indices and hands. The Carrera Day-Date ref. WDA2111.BD0001 is the two-tone model in this new collection. The watch has a black dial with rose gold indices and hands. The day-date function at 3 o’clock is also framed in gold. A stainless steel bracelet with 18-carat rose gold center links rounds off the overall appearance of the watch. The Day-Date model with the reference number WDA2110.FC6614 comes on a black leather strap with blue decorative stitching. The watch has a black dial with silver indices. Its orange seconds hand brings even more color into play. The TH31-02 caliber ticks away inside these watches with a power reserve of 80 hours. The list prices are $4,000 for the leather strap version, $4,200 for the stainless steel models with blue and red dials, and $4,400 for the model with a black dial and gold indices. At $8,450, the two-tone version is by far the most expensive model.
Zenith: Limited Edition Platinum Watch to Celebrate 160 Years
Zenith G.F.J. The watch manufacturer Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary in 2025. To mark the occasion, the watchmaker presented the G.F.J. model, limited to 160 pieces, at Watches and Wonders 2025. Some will have guessed by now that the name is comprised of the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot, who founded the Zenith brand in 1865. The Zenith G.F.J. is a dress watch par excellence. The case of this model is made of platinum and has a diameter of 39.5 mm. While the lug-to-lug is 45.75 mm, the case thickness is only 10.5 mm. However, you should take this watch off before going in the pool, as the case can only withstand a water pressure of 50 meters (5 bar, 164 feet). The dial of the G.F.J. is made from the deep blue gemstone lapis lazuli. The dial color and its pattern in the stone is reminiscent of a starry sky. The outer edge of the dial features a so-called “brick” guilloché pattern, upon which applied line indices serve as hour markers. Inside, you’ll find the manual-winding caliber 135. Zenith produced this movement between the 1940s and 1960s, and reissued it exclusively for the G.F.J. The movement is COSC-certified, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours. In addition to the hour and minute hands, the movement has a small seconds complication at the 6 o’clock position.
Summary
Watches and Wonders 2025 once again had surprises in store for industry members and consumers alike. While Bvlgari set a new world record, Grand Seiko presented its most precise Spring Drive caliber to date. IWC on the other hand celebrated the 70th anniversary of its Ingenieur with a whole series of attractive new models, while Zenith relaunched a historic caliber to mark its 160th anniversary. TAG Heuer presented a series of attractive timepieces with new Carrera Day-Date models that are likely to appeal to a wide audience. There truly was something for every budget and taste.
