NOMOS Tangomat

When it premiered in 2005, the Tangomat was the first NOMOS watch to feature an automatic movement. Its design was inspired by that of the Tangente, the German manufacturer's bestselling watch. Alternating Arabic numerals and indices to mark the hours and thin, angular lugs characterize both the Tangomat and the Tangente.

However, the Tangomat is one millimeter larger than the standard Tangente, giving it a more masculine feel. That being said, it is by no means massive. At 38.3 mm in diameter and 8.2 mm thick, the Tangomat is the perfect office companion thanks to its classically simple NOMOS design. It's available with or without a date and with a white silver-plated or dark ruthenium-coated dial. The ruthenium models are especially exquisite, as this rare transition metal is a member of the platinum group.

The Tangomat GMT is this collection's top model. As its name suggests, this watch displays the time in two time zones simultaneously. With 24 time zones, the Tangomat GMT is more like a world time watch than a classic GMT.

The NOMOS Tangomat with the reference number 641 is this collection's entry-level model. It features a white silver-plated dial, steel case back, and lacks a date display. In mint condition, the ref. 641 costs around 2,200 USD. The version with a sapphire glass case back costs only slightly more at around 2,300 USD. Pre-owned pieces often sell for under 2,000 USD. The Tangomat with a ruthenium-coated dial demands between 2,000 USD pre-owned and 2,300 USD new.

Plan to spend a few hundred dollars more for Tangomat watches with a date display at 6 o'clock. Prices for the version with a white silver-plated dial range anywhere from 2,000 USD pre-owned to 2,700 USD in mint condition. The Tangomat with a date and dark dial changes hands for about 2,900 USD new and 2,400 USD pre-owned.

The Tangomat GMT is the most expensive watch in this collection. Expect pay over 3,200 USD for a never-worn timepiece. You can get pre-owned models for less than 2,900 USD.

The Tangomat GMT and Zürich World Time are two of the most complicated NOMOS watches. Both feature the in-house caliber DUW 5201 with the company's proprietary escapement. This Glashütte-based manufacturer is one of the few watch manufacturers to produce and use its own escapement system.

The 40-mm Tangomat GMT is a bit larger than its sister models. It is also taller than any other watch in this collection. However, at only 10.9 mm, it is still flat enough to slip under a shirtsleeve. Its case is water resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft). Both the front and back are protected by scratch-resistant sapphire glass, allowing the wearer to admire the movement's fine finishes and tempered blue screws.

The hour, minute, and second hands are also tempered blue. This model features a small seconds dial at 6 o'clock and is currently only available with a white silver-plated dial. Like most NOMOS watches, a cordovan leather strap keeps this timepiece securely on the wrist. The lugs have a width of 20 mm.

Operating the Tangomat GMT couldn't be easier. Thanks to its stop seconds mechanism, you can set the time to the exact second via the crown. Synchronizing the hour hand to the home time is made possible by a pusher at 8 o'clock. The pusher is integrated into the case and operated using a pin tool provided by NOMOS. The home time is always displayed at 3 o'clock. When traveling, you can set the watch to the local time by pressing the pusher at 2 o'clock. A window at 9 o'clock displays which time zone it is set to using airport codes. For example, "BER" stand for Berlin, "NYC" for New York, and "SVO" for Moscow.