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Patek Philippe Calatrava 5212A-001 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar new 2020
Php 2,319,628
Professional dealer
39
AT
Louis Moinet LM-51.70.20.AI/26 New White gold 44mm Automatic
TOP
Louis Moinet - Freedom of Russia - Ref.: LM-51.70.20.AI/26 |...
Php 3,260,087
Professional dealer
 
RU
Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603 New Gold/Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Sea-Dweller 43MM 126603 18k Gold & Stainless Steel NEW
Php 905,600
Free shipping
Professional dealer
465
US
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 1183-310 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Ulysse Nardin MARINE CHRONOMETER TORPILLEUR 42MM FULL SET
Php 322,550
Professional dealer
231
PL
Seiko Prospex SPB147J1 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic The Philippines, Pasig
Seiko Prospex Seiko Prospex SPB147J1 62MAS
Php 43,000
Private Seller
PH
Baume & Mercier William Baume MOA08841 Unworn Rose gold 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Baume & Mercier William Baume Flying Tourbillon Limited...
Php 2,360,049
Professional dealer
190
DE
Seiko Prospex SRPC49K1 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic The Philippines, Manila
Seiko Prospex
Php 59,500
Private Seller
PH
Panerai Radiomir PAM00294 Very good 47mm Automatic The Philippines, Quezon City
Panerai Radiomir Historic PAM 294
Php 1,000,000
Private Seller
PH
Rado 10115 Very good 50mm Automatic The Philippines, Manila
Rado Voyager Presidents Type
Php 442,932
Private Seller
PH
Omega Seamaster DeVille 165.002 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic The Philippines, Cainta
Omega Seamaster Deville
Php 57,434
Private Seller
PH
Seiko Presage SRQ019J1 Very good The Philippines, Makati
Seiko Presage Seiko 60th anniversary limited chronograph
Php 165,000
Private Seller
PH
Breitling Chronomat Colt A17313101F1A1 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic The Philippines, 1012
Breitling Chronomat Colt
Php 110,000
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M WAY201A.BA0927 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic The Philippines, Davao city
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M
Php 80,000
Private Seller
PH
Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL 66-04-04-02-05 Good Steel 42mm Manual winding The Philippines, Muntinlupa
Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL
Php 500,000
Private Seller
PH
IWC Pilot Chronograph IW370603 Good 39mm Automatic The Philippines, Pasig City
IWC Fliegerchronograph
Php 167,330
Private Seller
PH
U-Boat Classico 2269 Fair Steel 45mm Automatic The Philippines, 1221
U-Boat Classico
Php 73,102
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre HEUER 01 CAR2A1Z.FT6044 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic The Philippines, Muntinlupa
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre HEUER 01
Php 220,000
Private Seller
PH
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Very good Steel 40mm Automatic The Philippines, METRO MANILA
Rolex Milgauss GV
Php 428,026
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M CAK2111BA833 Very good 43mm Automatic The Philippines, Zamboanga city
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 16
Php 110,000
Private Seller
PH
Tudor Glamour 51003-0026 Good Gold/Steel 26mm Automatic The Philippines, Sampaloc Manila
Tudor Glamour
Php 75,000
Private Seller
PH
Seiko Prospex SRPB01K1 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic The Philippines, Manila
Seiko Prospex
Php 36,911
Private Seller
PH
Omega De Ville Prestige 424.20.37.20.02.001 Very good Gold/Steel 36.8mm Automatic The Philippines, PasigCity
Omega 4242037202002001
Php 184,946
Private Seller
PH
Tissot 7A7GC06Q3 Unworn 25.6mm Automatic The Philippines, silang
Tissot T087.407.55.037.00
Php 30,000
Private Seller
PH
Omega De Ville Prestige 424.20.37.20.02.001 Very good Gold/Steel 36.8mm Automatic The Philippines, PasigCity
Omega De Ville Prestige
Php 184,890
Private Seller
PH
Rolex 1061661 Good 34mm Automatic The Philippines, Quezon City
Rolex 1500
Php 206,702
Private Seller
PH
Omega Seamaster 300 CK 14755 Fair 38mm Automatic The Philippines, Paranaque
Omega Seamaster 300
Php 450,000
Private Seller
PH
Breguet Classique Complications 5317BR/12/9V6 New Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Tourbillon, rose gold, 5-days power-reserve...
Php 4,346,783
Professional dealer
55
CH
Rolex Pearlmaster 69308RU Very good Yellow gold 29mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Very Rare Datejust Pearlmaster Ruby & Diamond Set Yellow...
Php 4,657,302
Free shipping
Professional dealer
715
UK
Breitling Super Avenger A1337011/A562 Very good Steel 48.4mm Automatic The Philippines, pangasinan
Breitling Super Avenger
Php 156,711
Private Seller
PH
Vacheron Constantin Very good Yellow gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Rare 18K Gold 1949 Cal. 453 Guilloche Dial...
Php 337,346
Professional dealer
111
DE
Bulgari Octo BGO38S Very good Steel 38mm Automatic
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref. BGO38S
Php 259,727

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega Genève Geneve 14K Gold Very good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Geneve automatic 14K Gold Cal 1012 vintage 1972
Php 86,516
Professional dealer
124
HU
Frederique Constant Ladies Automatic Double Heart Beat FC-310WDHB3BD6B New Steel 36mm Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Double Heart Beat Ladies Automatic...
Php 132,550
Free shipping
Professional dealer
66
FR
Piaget Polo S GOA41006 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Piaget Polo S Chronograph Automatic
Php 504,451
Professional dealer
80
US
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 384.032 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase 384.032
Php 1,129,477
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1326
US
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster 80285 New Rose gold 29mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster, 260 diamonds on bezel and...
Php 3,104,845
Professional dealer
55
CH
Frederique Constant Manufacture Worldtimer FC-718WM4H6 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Automatic FC-718WM4H6
Php 101,382
Professional dealer
376
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 522.32.40.20.04.001 522.32.40.20.04.002 522.32.40.20.04.003 522.32.40.20.04.004 New Steel 39.5mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Olympic 2008 Beijing China 522.32.40.20.04.001
Php 1,470,781
Professional dealer
801
US
Maurice Lacroix Les Classiques Tradition LC6063-PS101-110-1 New Gold/Steel Automatic
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Damen Automatik LC6063-PS101-110-1 Tradition...
Php 65,618
Professional dealer
1002
DE
IWC Ingenieur AMG IW322703 Very good Titanium 42mm Automatic
IWC Ingenieur AMG Titan Automatik Herrenuhr Ref. IW322703
Php 170,166

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Vacheron Constantin Vacheron & Constantin Very good Yellow gold 27mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Cal 1014 vintage 18K Gold 1973
Php 119,355
Professional dealer
124
HU
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 145.022 Good Steel 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Vintage Speedmaster Professional 145.022-68 ST Transitio...
Php 490,676
Professional dealer
14
CH
Tutima Saxon One tutima 6121-03 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Tutima Saxon One M Ref. 6121-03 Automatik Box/Papiere
Php 116,429
Professional dealer
178
DE
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser 2050-131/03 Very good White gold 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser 2050-131/03
Php 2,359,845
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1326
US
Jaquet-Droz Astrale J015134222 New White gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz "The Times Zones", unique piece - no. 1/1, 68...
Php 1,230,849
Professional dealer
55
CH
Hublot Classic Fusion 45, 42, 38, 33 mm 585.NX.891L.NX.1204 Very good Titanium 33mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Light Blue Bracelet Automatic...
Php 325,405
Free shipping
Professional dealer
861
NL
Cartier Roadster W62020X6 Very good Steel 49mm Automatic
TOP
Cartier Roadster Chrono Watch preowned.W62020X6
Php 296,273
Professional dealer
376
US
Chopard L.U.C 161934-5001 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard L.U.C. Lunar Twin
Php 770,667
Professional dealer
113
CH
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326934 Very good Gold/Steel 42mm Automatic
Rolex Sky-Dweller Stahl / Weissgold Automatik Herrenuhr Ref....
Php 1,071,746

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega 2650 Very good Rose gold 32mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Cal. 420 14K Rose Gold vintage 1951
Php 101,443
Professional dealer
124
HU
Louis Erard 1931 32217AA31.BVA32 Unworn Steel Manual winding
TOP
Louis Erard 1931 Squelette Open
Php 49,899
Professional dealer
206
CH
Maurice Lacroix Pontos 68775 Good Steel 38mm Automatic
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Automatik Saphirglas Römisch
Php 29,555
Professional dealer
178
DE
Panerai Luminor Due PAM00675 Very good Rose gold 45mm Automatic
TOP
Panerai Luminor Due PAM 675
Php 932,619
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1326
US
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.59/0001 FK01 New White gold 51.8mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Golden Bridge, white gold, limited edition - no. 29/200
Php 1,386,091
Professional dealer
55
CH
U-Boat Chimera 8013 Very good Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
U-Boat Chimera Lefty Limited Edition ONLY 300 Pieces Ever...
Php 194,049
Free shipping
Professional dealer
861
NL
Frederique Constant Slimline Automatic FC-723NR3S6 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Frederique Constant Slimline Power Reserve Automatic FC-723NR3S6
Php 81,204
Professional dealer
376
US
Breguet Classique Complications 5317pt/12/9v6 Very good Platinum 39mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique Complications Platinium Tourbillon
Php 4,328,777
Free shipping
Professional dealer
591
ES
Franck Muller Crazy Hours 5850 Very good White gold 38.5mm Automatic
Franck Muller Crazy Hours 18K (0,750) Weissgold Automatik...
Php 570,204

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Nardin pocket watch Very good Silver 49mm Manual winding
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Silver Pocket watch taschenuhr with box
Php 83,530
Professional dealer
124
HU
Rolex Air King Precision 5500 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Air-King
Php 243,398
Professional dealer
14
CH
Tutima Saxon One tutima 6420-05 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Tutima Saxone One 6420-05
Php 292,566
Professional dealer
178
DE
Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37.57070 Very good White gold 37mm Automatic
TOP
Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar S37.57070
Php 2,064,557
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1326
US
Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin 545.OX.2210.LR New Rose gold 45mm Manual winding
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion, ultra-thin, rose gold, manual wind...
Php 909,276
Professional dealer
55
CH
Panerai Luminor Submersible 6561 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic
TOP
Panerai Luminor Submersible Limited Edition 44 MM Firenze - OP...
Php 325,405
Free shipping
Professional dealer
861
NL

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.


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