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Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-010 Very good White gold 34mm
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York 2017 Edition 7200/50g-010...
Php 1,753,034
Professional dealer
318
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 25863TI.OO.A001CU.01 New Titanium 48mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore T3 Bespoke Diamond Set
Price on request
Professional dealer
 
AU
Rolex Daytona 116500LN-0001 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona
Price on request
Professional dealer
 
AU
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner "Hulk"
Price on request
Professional dealer
 
AU
Franck Muller Casablanca 7880 Very good Rose gold 47mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Chronographe 7880 18k pink gold
Php 976,934
Professional dealer
15
MC
Seiko Presage SRQ019J1 Very good Steel Automatic The Philippines, Makati
Seiko Presage Seiko 60th anniversary limited chronograph
Php 165,000
Private Seller
PH
Panerai Radiomir PAM00294 Very good 47mm Automatic The Philippines, Quezon City
Panerai Radiomir Historic PAM 294
Php 1,000,000
Private Seller
PH
Panerai 3646 Very good Steel 47mm
TOP
Panerai 1944 Rolex Panerai Ref 3646 Cali Dial
Php 6,225,616
Professional dealer
16
US
Bulova 4414101 (caseback) or 1373.11 (dial) Good Steel 36mm Automatic The Philippines, Taguig City
Bulova Super Seville Day Date
Php 27,000
Private Seller
PH
Omega Seamaster DeVille 165.002 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic The Philippines, Cainta
Omega Seamaster Deville
Php 58,122
Private Seller
PH
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 3748 Very good Yellow gold 27mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe SADDAM HUSSEIN Signature & Iraqi Eagle Sigma...
Price on request
Professional dealer
10
ES
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 8 WAR5010.BA0723 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic The Philippines, Davao City
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 8
Php 104,634
Private Seller
PH
Breitling Chronomat Colt A17313101F1A1 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic The Philippines, 1012
Breitling Chronomat Colt
Php 110,000
Private Seller
PH
Omega Seamaster 300 CK 14755 Fair 38mm Automatic The Philippines, Paranaque
Omega Seamaster 300
Php 450,000
Private Seller
PH
Universal Genève 866101/01 Fair Steel 35mm Automatic The Philippines, Mandaluyong City
Universal Genève White Shadow
Php 30,000
Private Seller
PH
Tudor Fastrider Black Shield 42000CN-0016 Very good Ceramic Automatic The Philippines, Quezon City
Tudor Fastrider Black Shield
Php 170,000
Private Seller
PH
Omega Seamaster 2922-2 Fair Gold/Steel 34mm Automatic The Philippines, Mandaluyong City
Omega Seamaster Omega Seamaster Calendar Cal.503
Php 38,500
Private Seller
PH
Urwerk EMC urwerk EMC in Steel and Titanium Very good Steel Manual winding
TOP
Urwerk EMC
Php 3,735,370
Professional dealer
52
US
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2A10 Good Steel 43mm Automatic The Philippines, General Trias Cavite
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
Php 121,263
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady WAU2211.BA0861 Very good Steel 37mm Automatic The Philippines, 1423
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady
Php 80,000
Private Seller
PH
Rolex Bubble Back 2940 Very good Steel 32mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometre Bubble Back Ref. 2940
Php 266,436
Professional dealer
124
DE
Rolex 1061661 Good Steel 34mm Automatic The Philippines, Quezon City
Rolex 1500
Php 209,181
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre HEUER 01 CAR2A1Z.FT6044 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic The Philippines, Muntinlupa
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre HEUER 01
Php 220,000
Private Seller
PH
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M CAK2111BA833 Very good 43mm Automatic The Philippines, Zamboanga city
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 16
Php 110,000
Private Seller
PH
Tissot 7A7GC06Q3 Unworn 25.6mm Automatic The Philippines, silang
Tissot T087.407.55.037.00
Php 30,000
Private Seller
PH
Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL 66-04-04-02-05 Good Steel 42mm Manual winding The Philippines, Muntinlupa
Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL
Php 500,000
Private Seller
PH
Tudor Black Bay Bronze 79250BB-0001 Good Bronze 43mm Automatic
TOP
Tudor Heritage Black Bay
Php 348,635
Professional dealer
52
US
Universal Genève Compax 224100 Very good Steel 34mm Manual winding The Philippines, Quezon City
TOP
Universal Genève Uni-Compax
Php 134,473
Private Seller
PH
Cartier Santos Dumont 2649 Very good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding
TOP
Cartier Santos Dumont Yellow Gold Large W2008751
Php 500,308
Professional dealer
1179
NL
Omega 2618 Very good Rose gold 37,5mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Huge 18K Rose Gold 1950 Automatic Cal. 332 Special Indexes
Php 233,872
Professional dealer
124
DE
Gérald Genta Rof.m.10 Very good Steel 32mm Automatic
TOP
Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Disney Mickey Mouse Rof.m.10...
Php 473,073
Professional dealer
124
CZ
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 206.027 Very good White gold 36mm Manual winding
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 18K (0,750) Weissgold Handaufzug...
Php 760,824

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5099RG-001 Very good Rose gold 37.5mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo Cabriolet 5099RG-001 White Gold & Rose...
Php 538,794
Free shipping
Professional dealer
931
NL
Sinn 903 903.040 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Sinn 903 St Navigationschronograph
Php 168,743
Professional dealer
467
DE
Omega Speedmaster 36233300 Unworn Rose gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Speedmaster 39mm Ref#3623.33.01
Php 512,244
Professional dealer
829
US
Omega Very good Steel 33mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega 1954 Ryan Gosling Steel Mens Vintage Mechanical Sub...
Php 47,758
Professional dealer
1184
UK
Jaquet-Droz J017533270 New Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz Grande Heure Minute Quantieme Meteorite Dial...
Php 941,409
Free shipping
Professional dealer
625
LV
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Squelette MP7138-SS001-030 Very good Steel 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Squelette
Php 145,197
Professional dealer
116
CH
Breguet Reine de Naples 8968BR/X1/J50 Very good Rose gold 43mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Reine de Naples 8968BR/X1/J50 0D00
Php 1,093,218
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1451
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (submodel) Q2623402 New White gold 21mm Manual winding
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Joaillerie
Php 1,213,766
Professional dealer
247
ES
Rolex Milgauss 116400 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Milgauss Automatik Edelstahl Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual...
Php 447,021

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Cartier Roadster W62006x6 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Cartier Roadster Chronograph XL Automatic 43MM, REF, W62006X6
Php 260,220
Free shipping
Professional dealer
931
NL
Seiko Prospex SNR049J1 New Titanium 45mm Automatic
TOP
Seiko Prospex Spring Drive GMT Diver's limited Edition
Php 296,040
Professional dealer
467
DE
Patek Philippe Travel Time 5524R Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Brown Dial 5524R-001
Php 2,236,241
Professional dealer
14
US
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PFC231-1200100 New White gold 42mm Automatic
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hemispheres 18k White Gold Men's...
Php 597,609
Professional dealer
924
US
IWC Very good Rose gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC Cal. 89 Rose Gold Shark Lugs SERVICED
Php 158,641
Professional dealer
23
CH
Omega Genève Geneve Very good Yellow gold 34mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Geneve vintage 14K Gold with box 1972
Php 79,872
Professional dealer
139
HU
Chopard L.U.C 161934-5001 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard L.U.C.
Php 908,826
Professional dealer
116
CH
Ulysse Nardin Very good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold Rare Vintage
Php 147,428
Free shipping
Professional dealer
18
DE
Rolex GMT-Master 16700 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master Coke Automatik Herrenuhr Oyster Perpetual Ref...
Php 692,143

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Cartier Pasha 1023 Very good Yellow gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Cartier Pasha, Reference 1023, A Yellow Gold And Diamond-Set...
Php 494,388
Free shipping
Professional dealer
931
NL
Sinn U1 1010.010 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Sinn Taucheruhr U 1 Massivarmband
Php 111,903
Professional dealer
467
DE
Hamilton Intra-Matic H38416711 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton AMERICAN CLASSIC INTRA-MATIC AUTO CHRONO
Php 89,108
Professional dealer
246
ES
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PFC273-0061400-HE1421 New 33mm Automatic
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metropolitaine Automatic 33mm...
Php 174,317
Professional dealer
924
US
Porsche Design Dashboard 6620.11.66.0268 Very good Titanium 44mm Automatic
TOP
Porsche Design Dashboard Chronograph P6620
Php 101,638
Professional dealer
23
CH
Montblanc Star 126108 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
Montblanc MB126108 Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Automatic...
Php 318,254
Professional dealer
445
US
Epos Oeuvre d'art 3435.313.24.18.25 New Steel 43,5mm Manual winding
Straight from the manufacturer
Epos Oeuvre D'Art 3435 Verso
Php 120,725
Free shipping
EPOS Uhren
36
CH
Seiko 5 SNXS77 New Steel 37mm Automatic
TOP
Seiko 5 | Herrenuhr Automatik SNXS77
Php 7,638
Professional dealer
634
DE
Cartier Roadster 2510 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic
Cartier Roadster Automatik Datum Edelstahl Herrenuhr Ref. 2510
Php 139,139

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Piaget Gouverneur 1595 Very good Yellow gold 33.5mm Automatic
TOP
Piaget Gouverneur Automatic Enamel Dial Yellow Gold Very Rare...
Php 301,961
Free shipping
Professional dealer
931
NL
Sinn EZM 3 603.010 New Steel Automatic
TOP
Sinn Taucheruhr EZM3
Php 98,285
Professional dealer
467
DE
Perrelet Turbine XXS A2053 Very good Steel Automatic
TOP
Perrelet Turbine Xxs
Php 159,862
Professional dealer
10
ES
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PFC267-1263800-HA2421 New White gold 39mm Automatic
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 18k White Gold Tahiti MOP Dial...
Php 298,780
Professional dealer
924
US
Ulysse Nardin A.261 Good Steel 34mm Automatic
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Vintage Chronometer 36000
Php 137,130
Professional dealer
23
CH

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.